Arles · autumn 1888 · one motif, two looks

The Alyscamps: Van Gogh and Gauguin paint the same avenue of Arles

A few steps from the Yellow House, the two artists set up their easels in an old necropolis. Van Gogh draws from it a feverish series of four paintings; Gauguin, two more constructed and decorative visions.

The essential difference: Van Gogh transforms perspective, trunks and leaves into movement; Gauguin simplifies the place into colorful masses and composes an almost symbolic scene.

Allée des Alyscamps in Arles lined with ancient sarcophagi
The Alyscamps today - photo Ddeveze, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0.
Oct 23, 1888Gauguin arrives in Arles
6 oils4 Van Gogh + 2 Gauguin
1 kmfrom the Yellow House
nov 1.new session in the aisle

Quick response

Did they really paint side by side?

Yes. The Alyscamps constitute their first major common subject after Gauguin's arrival in Arles. The two men worked there at the end of October then at the beginning of November 1888, sometimes with neighboring points of view.

The result, however, does not form a pair of copies. Van Gogh often fixes his gaze in the middle of the alley, accentuates the flight of trees and makes the carpet of leaves vibrate. Gauguin moves the historical motif to the margins, orders the colors into zones and gives more importance to the silhouettes crossing the landscape.

Comparing their Alyscamps means observing a pictorial conversation live: same season, same terrain, same crude canvas for certain versions - but two ideas of modernity.

Falling leaves at Alyscamps painted by Vincent van Gogh

The place before the painting

A necropolis that has become a promenade

The name "Alyscamps" derives from the Champs Élysées, the stay of the blessed in Antiquity. At the gates of Arelate, the road lined with tombs became an important Roman and then Christian necropolis.

In the 19th century, the whole no longer had the appearance of an intact funerary city. Empty sarcophagi remain along a planted alley; Saint-Honorat closes the perspective; the canal and railway installations remind us that the modern city wins over the remains. This superposition - antiquity, promenade, industry - gives the motif its strength.

What Van Gogh keepsTrees, leaves, certain tombs, walkers and, in one version, industrial smoke.
What Gauguin erasesMost of the sarcophagi: the site becomes a colorful landscape, crossed by figures.

Face-to-face

Two verticals, two ideas of the landscape

The works below start from the same corridor of trees. At Van Gogh, the path draws the eye. At Gauguin, the landscape presents itself as an organized surface.

The Alyscamps by Vincent van Gogh, vertical version preserved in Athens
Vincent van Gogh October-November 1888

Depth under tension

92 × 73 cmGoulandris Foundation, Athensoil on canvas

Poplars divide the canvas, yellow-orange leaves invade the path and sarcophagi guide the escape. Basically, industrial chimneys thwart ancient memory. The tiny couple is enough to introduce the present into this landscape of the dead.

See this reproduction →
The Alyscamps painted by Paul Gauguin in 1888, Musée d'Orsay
Paul Gauguin · 1888

Color as construction

91.5 × 72.5 cmorsay Museum, Parisoil on canvas

Gauguin dismisses almost all funerary vocabulary. He guards the lantern tower and part of Saint-Honorat, then distributes trees, water, embankments and people in juxtaposed masses. The flamboyant autumnal hues not only describe the season: they give the painting its architecture.

See this reproduction →

Same aisle, not the same snapshot. The two paintings reproduce neither exactly the same point of view nor the same day. Their interest lies precisely in this discrepancy: everyone selects in the place what serves their language.

Point-by-point comparison

Van Gogh circulates the eye; Gauguin immobilizes the scene

Element Van Gogh Gauguin
Viewpoint Often placed in the axis of the path or very close to the trees; perspective leads to the gaze. Shifted towards the canal and embankments; the space is deliberately flattened.
Trees Vertical trunks, sometimes cut by the frame, which punctuate the depth and touch. Synthetic masses, simplified contours, trees used as colored partitions.
Leaves Directional lines and touches: the ground seems to move underfoot. Beaches of ocher, red and yellow: the season becomes a setting.
Remains Sarcophagi and church remain legible; industry may appear nearby. The tombs disappear almost entirely; Saint-Honorat is reduced to a landmark.
Figures Small, fast walkers, sometimes caricatures, caught up in the movement. Three more constructed silhouettes: two Arlesiennes and a man organize the scene.
Color Intense and complementary contrasts, visible material, blue now altered in one version. Saturated, subjective, decorative colors, placed in masses and hatching.
Reference Diving perspective and framing nourished by Japanese prints. Syntheticism: simplifying the form to prioritize idea and harmony.
Final effect A landscape experienced physically, crossed by energy and melancholy. A calm, almost timeless scene, where reality becomes composition.

The complete series

Four Van Goghs, two Gauguins

The comparison is not limited to the two most reproduced verticals. The artists change format, distance and axis: the series shows their thinking in progress.

Reference: the catalogs raisonnés identify in particular the two "fallen sheets" by F 486 /JH 1620 and F 487 /JH 1621. French titles vary according to collections and translations.

Work together

The common motive acts as an experience

1

Same terrain

The two painters move to a place close to the Yellow House, open enough to install the easels and quickly vary the points of view.

2

Opposing choices

Van Gogh seeks direct sensation and the cadence of the keys. Gauguin wants to go beyond description and construct a mental, synthetic image.

3

Reciprocal influence

The dialogue pushes Van Gogh towards more schematized compositions, while Gauguin measures his system by the light and colors of the South.

A decisive material detail

The burlap makes their dialogue visible

Technical studies have shown that Gauguin uses a coarse canvas close to the bag in Arles, and that Van Gogh uses the same type of support for two views of the Alyscamps. The frame remains perceptible under the paint: it hooks the brush, splits the keys and contributes to the rough appearance of the works. The companionship is therefore not only a biographical story; it can be read even in the material.

Tightened chronology

A few days before the methods diverged

oct 23.

Gauguin joins Arles

He moves in with Van Gogh in the Yellow House. The project for a "atelier du Midi" becomes, for a few weeks, a daily reality.

oct 29.

First views on the pattern

The artists work at Alyscamps. Gauguin frames walkers near the canal; Van Gogh looks out over the nearby alley, tombs and chimneys.

nov 1.

Return for autumnal splendor

On All Saints' Day, visitors pass through the cemetery. Van Gogh pushes the monumental perspective of an alley that he describes as "entirely yellow".

1 -2 Nov.

A joint letter to Émile Bernard

Vincent and Gauguin write from Arles. The notes linked to this correspondence identify the two versions of fallen sheets: the campaign is still recent and actively commented on.

nov 12.

Van Gogh says he is encouraged

To his sister Willemien, he explains that Gauguin often encourages him to work more imaginatively. This tension between observation and invention structures their stay.

Dec. 1888

The common project is shattered

Disagreements are piling up. After the crisis of December 23, Gauguin left Arles. The Alyscamps remain the clearest image of their first shared enthusiasm.

Eye guide

Four details to no longer confuse the versions

1
Spot the horizon. Almost absent in Van Gogh's horizontal views, he reappears in the verticals and in Gauguin.
2
Count the remains. Sarcophagi and architecture point to Van Gogh's report instead; their disappearance at Gauguin is a choice, not an oversight.
3
Follow the keys. In Van Gogh, they indicate a direction. In Gauguin, they fill and stabilize areas.
4
Observe the bruises. In a view of the Kroeller-Müller, some now blue trunks were originally purple: the red pigment has discolored.
yellow leafred ocherblued trunkcanal greenplum shade

Extend Arles at home

Four paintings from the same living room

The Alyscamps belong to an exceptional moment in 1888. These neighboring works make it possible to compose a coherent whole around the city, the night and the Yellow House.

Frequently asked questions

The Alyscamps of Van Gogh and Gauguin

How many Alyscamps paintings did Van Gogh paint?

Van Gogh produced four oils dedicated to the Alyscamps during the campaign with Gauguin at the end of October and the beginning of November 1888: two more general views and two compositions often referred to as "fallen leaves".

How many did Gauguin paint?

Gauguin painted two main oils of the site: the vertical preserved at the Musée d'Orsay and a horizontal view today at the Sompo Museum of Art in Tokyo.

Where to see Gauguin's Alyscamps?

The famous vertical version from 1888 is kept at the Musée d'Orsay, in Paris, under inventory number RF 1938 47. Its presence in the room may vary depending on loans and rotations.

Where to see Van Gogh's versions?

A vertical is kept at the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation in Athens; a horizontal view of fallen leaves belongs to the Kroeller-Müller Museum in Otterlo. Other versions are from private collections.

Why is the place called Les Alyscamps?

The Provençal name refers to the "Champs Élysées", a place of stay for heroes and happy souls in ancient tradition. It designates the vast necropolis developed outside the Roman city of Arles.

Did Van Gogh and Gauguin use the same canvas?

Not the same piece of fabric, but the same type of coarse support close to burlap appears in several works in their living room. This visible weft reinforces the materiality of the touch.

Which Alyscamps painting sold for $66.3 million?

The vertical Alyscamps Alley, dated November 1, 1888, was sold for $66.33 million at Sotheby's in New York in May 2015.

Can we still visit the Alyscamps in Arles?

Yes. The alley, sarcophagi and religious remains still form a heritage site of Arles. The landscape has evolved since 1888, but the axis of the walk allows you to immediately understand the choices of the two painters.

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